Armenian cheese bread (pizza, sort of; banir hatz, baneer hatz)
Armenian cheese bread is in regular production at the Sarkahian household
where the recipe resides in Isgouhi's mental cookbook, apparently handed down
from her mom who came from the food mecca
Aleppo, Syria. Surfing
the web for similar recipes is difficult since there are so many ways of writing
"cheese" "bread" in Armenian and its various dialects, and of course every
Armenian mom makes variations out of family traditions (Anjarian
dialect: bandrou hatz).
This recipe is typically made in industrial sized quantities, or at least enough
to supply a large extended family which relies on this as a snack/lunch food. It
is essentially a bread dough pizza, usually made on big rectangular cookie
sheets.
Although we wrote down the ingredient list 15 years ago, somehow we never
formalized it into an actual recipe in our collection, perhaps since we have
been lucky enough to have it appear magically at regular intervals in our
refrigerator. But the time has come to elevate it to the status it deserves.
Motivated by all the terribly amateur photos we have already snapped with our point and shoot digital
camera. The T = "tablespoon" and t = "teaspoon" measurements which appear here
are the Isgouhi heaping spoonfuls. For a long time when she dictated her
recipes, this qualifier was not understood by bob, resulting in our attempts
falling short of the mark for a while. We eventually got the message. All T and
t measurements below even when not followed by "(heaping)" should be understood
in that light. Of course oil does not heap, so in that case it is a mute point.
ingredients
- dough
- 5 lbs flour (can be 50-50 all purpose and whole wheat!)
- 1 T (heaping) salt
- 1/4 c vegetable oil
- 1/2 c warm water
- 2 T (heaping) dry yeast
- 1 T salt
- 1 T (heaping) sugar
- extra water if needed
- cheese-spice mix topping (for about 4-5 11x14 in pans)
- bulk stuff:
1 lb blue cheese or gorgonzola cheese
- 1 lb farmer's cheese (originally small curd cottage cheese)
- 1 c grated parmesan cheese (parmigiano!) or pecorino romano (for a stronger
taste)
- 8-9 finely chopped medium onions
spices:
- 1/2 t black pepper
- 1 t red pepper (to taste), spicy paprika, not cayenne
- 1 t allspice
- salt to taste
- 2 T oregano
- 1 T cumin
- 1/8 t ground cloves
- touch of cinnamon to taste
liquids:
- 3-4 T olive oil
- 2-3 T (heaping) tomato paste (Isgouhi's modification of tradition to give
more color to the topping)
- 2 T (heaping) red pepper paste.
instructions
- Topping:
Mix all the ingredients together. If not red enough, add another T tomato
paste. Check that spices are "enough". This is the hard part since the
memory for comparison is in the chef's head, not ours. Set aside.
Dough:
- Find the family dough specialist for this step. It helps to have a
little experience. But if not, you have to start somewhere, give it a try.
Practice makes perfect.
Stir the yeast, salt and sugar into the warm water and let sit 15 minutes
until it puffs up. Mix the flour and
salt together. Incorporate the yeast mixture into a well in the middle of the flour
and mix until even with your hands. Continue adding a bit of water at a time
if needed to reach the right dough consistency. See photos.
- Knead the dough in a large bowl sprayed with vegetable oil about 10-15
minutes until it is smooth.
- Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and put in a warm place like the oven
(without heat) to rise for 2 hours until it doubles in volume approximately.
- With a little oil on your hands, divide the dough into 5 or 6 equal
balls. Put them on a cookie sheet with flour under them so they don't stick,
cover with plastic and let sit for another half hour for a second rise.
- Roll out each dough ball (large enough ball to cover your large cookie
sheets to the desired thickness).
- Spread the topping on each sheet as it is rolled out.
- Bake two sheets at a time at 400� F for
15-20 minutes until
the dough is sufficiently cooked.
- Remove and cool.
- Stack with waxed paper in between the
sheets and put in a large plastic bag and refrigerate.
- You can eat some when it comes out of the
oven if you wish.
notes
- Some spelling variations:
Banirov Hatz; Banderoom Hootz, Bandera Hootz, Bender Hootz (dialect):
http://georgefamily.net/cookbook/20BahneerHatz.html,
Banerov Hatz: http://www.thearmeniankitchen.com/ [search],
Banir or Baneer Hatz.[http://www.thegutsygourmet.net/glossary.html]
- 2020 update.
This is just the Armenian version of
the Italian flatbread called focaccia, but with a thin topping to boost the
flavor to the max. After a decade or more of bob lamenting about whole wheat
upgrades, finally Ani and Isgouhi listen and give it a try here, and
FANTASTIC taste! But we won't be able tell her brother's family---they are
unable to switch. Some people just won't bend in the taste department, even
for their own good.
- 2022 update. Apparently when the Sarks came to the USA,
they learned the Armenian-American version (farmer's cheese replacing the
cottage cheese which they made from yogurt in Anjar) of this from Ani's
dad's sister Araxi who remained in the USA after Ani's grandfather returned
to his Musa Dagh home in 1922, providing the chain immigration loophole for
them to immigrate to the USA in 1976 after the Lebanese civil war started.
The newer version was better than the Anjarian one, as became obvious when
they later compared the two back in Anjar.
- Our recipe for whole wheat focaccia.
- Illustrations available.